Update: Now that I’m back home from Cuba with better Internet access, I’ve added pix of Hemingway’s house.
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I’m writing today’s post from the Hotel Nacional in Havana, Cuba, fervently hoping that the revolutionary Internet watch dogs (perros de la seguridad) will allow my words to be successfully uploaded to WordPress and displayed beyond there to you, Dear Reader, on Tuesday. We’re on the third day of an eight-day excursion to this island nation. (In terms of encountering Internet censoring, so far I haven’t in fact encountered too many problems. The only sites that have been completely blocked so far are the Huffington Post and Gawker. Amazon did seem a tad confused when I tried to order a Kindle book online from my Cuban hotel room–first it displayed a message saying that Kindle books aren’t available in the United States; then it asked whether I’d recently changed my country of residence. I ultimately gave up my quest to purchase the e-book).
It’s interesting visiting Cuba immediately in the wake of the lifting of the decades-long trade embargo and Obama’s recent presidential visit.
I think many Americans are assuming, as I did, that once the embargo is finally lifted in practice, Cuba will be quickly transformed into a more-or-less Westernized economy. I no longer think that’s the case. Cuba is…well, it’s different. As one of my fellow American travelers said with a sigh, over a highly restricted menu at a government-owned restaurant, “Cuba has a long way to go.” First, there’s the abysmal infrastructure (Example: all human waste is dumped directly into the harbor because there are no treatment plants). Then, there’s the highly centralized economy. (This morning we learned from a speaker that there’s no such thing as a wholesale business in Cuba. Everyone pays the same exact price everywhere. Try to make a profit running a business that way).
On the plus side, the country of Cuba is charming in many ways. Being here is literally like stepping into a time warp. Taxis are mostly 50-era Chevys (we even saw one Edsel taxi); many streets are cobblestone; architectural styles are similarly retro. The adult literacy rate is nearly 100%.
Overall as an American, though, I feel slightly uncomfortable in Cuba. It started in the airport when our group waited two hours for our baggage to be offloaded from our American Airlines charter flight. (It was Saturday night; it turns out that people don’t like working on Saturday nights). Being in Cuba makes me aware that Americans are impatient. Pushy, even. We tend to look at something and try to figure out a way to make it work faster, better. I think that once Cuba is overrun with Americans telling them how to make things work faster and better, they may want to pack us all off on the next one-way barco to Miami. And I wouldn’t blame them a bit.
See you back in the States–and viva Cuba Libre!
Update: Now that I’m back home with better Internet access, I’ll post pix of Hemingway’s house in Cuba. I was happy to be able to see the famous typewriter where, standing on top of a Lesser Kudu gazelle skin, he every morning. I had to shoot through a window because visitors aren’t allowed inside, but I successfully bribed a docent to take the closeups of the typewriter and the gazelle hide. (There’s an upstairs office that one of Hemingway’s wives commissioned as a writing office, but our guide said Hemingway used it mostly for rendezvous with one of his lovers. He did his actual writing at the typewriter by his bed).





















